SPRING-SUMMER 2024

SPRING-SUMMER 2024

The springtime floral is a timeless trope, a creative cliché, and a fashion institution in its own right. While the signature surface decorations of David Koma have often taken floral form, the sweetness associated with the classic flower motif constitutes something of a contrast to his practice. The Spring-Summer 2024 Collection embraces this divergence in an exploration of floral romanticism within the glamorous modernism of David Koma. Through Georgian designer’s adopted London gaze, the notion prompts the idea of the English rose as embodied by a young Elizabeth II.

During her military service in the early 1940s, the princess was photographed riding a Royal Enfield 250 motorcycle. The contrasting spirit of the image inspires a collection founded in the dialogue between her graceful biker attitude and the vibrant flower-coloured looks she favoured later in life. Intensified in nuance and projected in the graphic form language of David Koma it is an illustration of the multifaceted and versatile femininity at the core of the brand.

The rose is interpreted in the three-dimensionality of silhouettes, embellishments and prints. Evoking petals, sculptural ruffles burst from the body like roses in bloom and the acidic colours of oversized rose prints are amplified by black backdrops. Intricate organic patterns interwoven by climbing roses translate effortlessly onto printed silk mesh enveloping the body.

A base note in the romantic wardrobe, lace is subverted in a hand-drawn rose variation embroidered on tulle to imitate the idea of tattoos on the skin, and in a classic 1960s daisy motif re-imagined in a crystal-effect floral lace.

The translucent organic and opaque acidic palette captures the spectrum of green, orange, pink and lilac shades, complemented by black and white. Solid colour blocking pays tribute to Queen Elizabeth’s “one has to be seen to be believed” philosophy, adorned with magnified encrusted brooches employed across buttons, linking details and accessories.

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