Swimwear is subject to gaze. Constructed like a second skin on the body, its multi-faceted iterations span the poles of performance and sensuality, and every area in between. For Spring-Summer 2022, David Koma’s study of swimming costumes takes its point of departure in the athleticism core to that duality. Captured in film at the London Aquatics Centre designed by Zaha Hadid, the collection enters into a dialogue between the architect’s characteristic lines and the structural properties of the aquatic wardrobe.
A series of tech lycra dresses are hybridised with swimwear with hints at wetsuits, while the plume trims of longer silhouettes mimic underwater movement. Transparent sequins create the illusion of garments recently submerged in water. The memory of swimwear appears in outlines and cut-outs on colour-blocked dresses, conjuring the detectible curves of swimming costumes.
Evoking the aerodynamic sensibility of garments made for the aquatics, hard and sculpted geometric elements crystallised in embroideries adorn the décolletages and hems of dresses, and pay homage to the form language of Zaha Hadid.
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